Throughout the Middle Ages, Christian faithful set out from all over Europe on foot to the tombs of the apostles in Rome, Compostela, France, and the Holy Land. The loosely connected route became known as the Via Francigena, as it passed primarily through France. St. Francis himself was a pilgrim and he walked the roads of Italy and Europe going as far as the Holy Land in the East to Santiago de Compostela in the West. He also went to Rome on numerous occasions passing through Rieti on the way down to the eternal city or back up to his hometown. However, he never could have known that his own beloved city would one day become a storied pilgrimage destination. In fact, by the late 13th century, due to the plenary indulgence granted to the Portiuncula (and the fame of his own tomb), Assisi was forever enshrined on the pilgrimage map. Over the past few decades, walking pilgrimages (camminos) have been increasing in popularity. The most popular trail today is still the Camino de Santiago to Compostela, Spain. Yet, now -- thanks to efforts by the governments of Umbria, Lazio, and the Vatican -- the walking path from Assisi to Rome has been restored. The “Via di Francesco” (Way of Francis), also known as the Via Francigena Francescana, begins in the Assisi, the city of St. Francis who is arguably one of the most well-known and charismatic saints in the Church. In Assisi, every corner, every street, every view, evokes the words and life of the beloved saint. St. Francis is symbolized by the Tau, which represents his spirituality and penance. Francis discovered the Tau when he began serving lepers, as it was worn by penitents who also cared for lepers in Assisi. Francis adopted it as the symbol of his own penance (his conversion) and he used it in his writings, signed his name with it, painted it on places where he stayed, and drew it on his habit. The pilgrimage finally finishes in Rome, the city where St. Peter was martyred and buried. In the history of Christendom, the See of Rome has always held a special preeminence, a primacy. Much of that comes from Scripture: "And so I say to you, you are Peter, and upon this rock I will build my church, and the gates of the netherworld shall not prevail against it. I will give you the keys to the kingdom of heaven. Whatever you bind on earth shall be bound in heaven; and whatever you loose on earth shall be loosed in heaven."(Matthew 16:18-19) St. Peter and the Popes are symbolized by the key, which represents the power of binding and loosing committed to St. Peter and his successors -- the Popes; i.e., the care and government of the Church. In the Middle Ages, pilgrims journeying to Rome wore a key on their tunic. The connection between Assisi and Rome is, thus, an important one for the Christian pilgrim, as it represents the connection between the charismatic spirit of St. Francis and the institutional See of Peter. Some might say that the journey between the two great Christian cities is one that connects the heart with the head; spirit with structure, inspiration with organization; anima to animus. As you begin this pilgrimage, let these two symbols -- the Tau and the Key -- guide you not only on your journey over the next two weeks, but for the rest of your Christian journey.
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Bret ThomanCatholic. Franciscan. Married. Father. Pilgrim guide. Writer. Translator. Pilot. Aspiring sailor. Archives
January 2023
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